Chobe Safari Lodge: A Slice of Heaven: Part II

The interior décor is a gigantic work of art. Masterfully crafted African sculptures with grotesque expressions lend their primal beauty to the place.  An Omweso board with two heads on either side for handles sits atop a table with legs made of antelope horns.   

The animal paintings on the wall are so lifelike; one gets the impression of looking through a window at the wildlife. The soft-leather, black, dirt-brown and patterned sofas whistle as you settle down in them, so soft that one feels like they are suspended in air. Glass doors open to reveal the Nile River in all its glory; a lazy serpent zigzagging along its ancient course. Hippos grunt in the shallow riverbanks and the birds chirp in the trees, composing an orchestra of music that soothes the soul. 

Below are some of the art pieces that made my eyes roll back in their sockets: 

With all this talk that the best accommodation in Uganda can only be found in Kampala or Entebbe, Chobe Safari Lodge located in Amuru District begs to differ. The excellent service, delectable cuisine, spacious sleeping quarters with a stunning view all round and the bonus of sitting snug in the middle of beautiful African wild make this an experience one has to have at least once in their lives.

Chobe Safari Lodge: A Slice of Heaven: Part I

My first impression of Chobe Safari Lodge, located in the heart of Murchison Falls National Park was like I had just stumbled into a day dream.  It felt like a desert mirage after all the travelling we had done. The perfection of the place is like nothing I had ever experienced. 

There is a healthy blend of stone-work and vanished wood that stays true to the natural aesthetics of its environs. The spectacular African art and sculptures had my eyes almost pop out of their sockets with amazement.  The service delivery was top-notch. I looked at a receptionist with wonder; I had no idea that a human smile could spread so wide.  I savoured my first slice of heaven; a truly 5-star experience. 

The General Manager, Kim Allen is an energetic, intriguing individual; she was everywhere all at once, managing, directing, organising everything like a conductor on an opera stage.  In the spirit of her perfectionism, the entire lodge runs like a well-oiled machine bustling with life and well-being. My prior experience with 5-star hotels had made me feel like I was in transit, with the hotel staff impatient to get rid of me for more clients; at Chobe, it was the opposite. I wanted to stay longer and enjoy the retreat with nature all around me. Perhaps it was my imagination but I thought I saw the receptionist pout when it was time to leave. 

 (End of Part I)

Paraa Safari Lodge, Part II: Paradise in the Wild

Paraa Safari Lodge is located within the vicinity of Murchison Falls National Park. Against the backdrop of untainted African wild, the beasts roam free, confident of their place in the savanna grasslands that strech as far as the eye can see.

My first sighting was a Jackson's Hartebeest, a deer-like animal with a strange head that eerily resembles a grasshopper's
Our guide informed us that the hartebeest is known for it's forgetfulness (Much like a grasshopper) It could spy a lion stalking it and then forgets all about it a few seconds later. Next time it remembers is when lion teeth have gone for the jugular and by then it's too late.

The waterbuck is another deer-like animal we saw. The ones I saw were hornless and furry and frankly looked delish! Our guide told me to save my breathe. and saliva. The waterbuck he said when panicked does something to its flesh. The meat is totally unappealing, I heard and for that reason, they tend not to be targeted by predators.

Corne Schalkwyk of Marasa Africa that runs Paraa Safari Lodge described the unique species of giraffe at Murchison Falls National Park as 'White Socks'. The Rothchild's Giraffe's spots unlike other giraffes' stop at the knees and below is pure white. Watching them is an experience that words can't fully describe. They are graceful but awkward, tall but down-to-earth,  Spotted but hard to find, endangered but here for now. I fell in love with these gentle beauties and their heavily lashed eyes as they fed on tall acacia trees. My mind screamed ENCORE.

Being my first time to see a live Hippopotamus, the first thing that came to mind was, "Hungry Hungry Hippo!" I half-expected them to get in line and sing me that beloved nursery rhyme. They grunt like bad-tempered old men and blow out  air like whales. I was told by my guide that their sweat and milk is pink which is a weird thing. I loved to watch them in the shallow banks of the Nile river going about their domestic affairs without a fuss. I was a bit terrified though- their reputation of capsizing boats precedes them. As Paraa and Chobe Safari Lodges are built quite close to the Nile, the Hippos were easy to spot and added to the magical aura of the place. I loved watching them.

During our boat-ride, I saw these spectacular erosion-made river banks that are an attraction in itself. Considering the current water level of the Nile, what kept nagging me at the back of my mind was: Was the Nile at one time that deep? Wow! A keen eye would notice tiny holes at some point: These are bird nests if I can call them that. I was in la-la land at this point.

Along these banks, my guide informed us that the legendary American author, Ernest Hemingway crashed his plane not once but twice and lived to talk about it. That was one bit of history I had no idea about, wikipedia simply says it happened somewhere in Africa. Now I knew that it happened at Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda.



I saw lots of other animals but not being a seasoned tourist, I only had my cellphone with which I took the pictures I had. The beauty of this place still oozes through and I have to say, I feel more in touch with my roots and can't wait for another opportunity to present itself. I felt I belonged for once in my life. It was a life-changing experience. My journey didn't end there though. More to come...

Paraa Safari Lodge: The Jewel of the Nile

Perhaps it was the long energy-sapping drive from Kampala along bumpy, dusty, thirsty roads; perhaps it was my lazy bones grumbling, perhaps it was the warm reception at my final destination, I cannot tell. Only thing I can say about Paraa Safari Lodge—You had me at Hello! 

I kept looking behind me; had I been mistaken for a celebrity come for a weekend away from the hustle and bustle of Kampala? I couldn’t tell. The attendants were swooning over me with such care, I almost blushed, unused as I was to too much attention.  After hours on the road, stiff, tired, hungry, chocking with dust in my throat, in my hair on my skin, here I was, an overnight Celebrity!

The ambience is cosy and warm and grows on you like old shoes. I felt like I had lived here for years. Maybe time stood still as my bond with Paraa strengthened over the coming hours. I don’t remember whether background music played or whether that’s a construct of my flawed memory.   

Maybe it was the soothing sound of the River Nile that licked at the feet of the Lodge, I cannot tell. All I know is that whatever hand crafted the Lodge had had a good childhood. I felt at home instantly. 

The buffet was food for the gods and catered even to the palettes of the pickiest eaters. I gorged myself on exotic and traditional food. The desserts were laid out neatly on a unique table crafted to resemble a boat, complete with decks.  On the top deck were original artefacts of yesteryear.  I marvelled at the ingenuity.

The message was not lost on me; here I was in Murchison Falls National Park, one of the last frontiers of the virgin wild in Uganda, unblemished by human corruption, and before me were tools used by explorers who saw this beautiful country as it once was. Brilliance! 

In my next blog, I go take me some snaps of the beautiful wild animals. Watch this space!

CACE: gifts that keep on giving

I recently had an opportunity to further my writing career. CACE (pronounced Cha-Chay) which is the acronym for the Center for African Cultural Excellence in conjunction with the US Embassy Kampala sponsored a select 10 fledgling writers for a fully paid 1 week intensive freelance writing course and 5 weeks arduous fieldwork to utilise the skills learned.  I had to pinch myself every 2 minutes until I drew blood to remind myself that I wasn’t actually dreaming and that this was really happening. I was in 7^th Heaven. Believe it!

The varied highly accomplished Course Staff and Guest Speakers included Brian Bwesigye, Frida Nabifo, Esther Namugoji, Lydia Namubiru,Kanyango Caroline, Solomon Kayiwa,  Elise Crane, Beatrice Lamwaka, Harriet Anena and Corne Schalkwyk among others tasked with the herculean task of making men and women of us, the 10 doe-eyed virgins with baby teeth.  The goal was to give us the tools that we would need to sink our teeth in the Freelance Writing Arena and never let go.

At the end of the 6 weeks, I was published in New Vision, the largest media house in Uganda, I had used social media skills I had learned to promote Marasa Africa for which I won a 3 days trip alongside professional journalists to Murchison Falls National Park. Marasa Africa was showcasing Paraa and Chobe Safari Lodges which I found exquisite to say the least. The nature came alive, teeming with wildlife and I was torn when time came to return to Kampala.  These 6 weeks have been a turning point in my life and I will always be grateful for those great souls who made it happen.